My Galaga Themed Cab

My cabinet is now finished, I’ve been meaning to make a web page but have been procrastinating and just decided to make a quick and dirty web page so that I had a place to show off what I’ve done and how I’ve done it. So here we go.
I used the LuSid cabinet design because it is a simple yet elegant design, plus its the one with detailed instructions in the Project Arcade book. I had not done any wood work since my wood shop class in my freshman year of highschool (around 10 years ago) so I figured the easier the design the better. After deciding on the design I needed to come up with a theme. Originally I was going to use an Atomic Train theme, but I decided it would probably look lame, so I went with my favorite classic arcade game, Galaga. I knew the sideart and marquee would be easy enough to find, so I wouldn’t have to worry about artwork.
Next came the wood working. I actually took to it better then I expected. On my first day of cutting I only messed up a couple of pieces of wood, but most of my first day mistakes would easily sand out. After the first day I started getting pretty good at cutting straight lines and ended up finishing cutting out the pieces in just a few weekends (I haven’t mentioned this before, but this was a weekend only project).

Once the pieces were cut out, I began construction. The hard part with attaching the sides was that I was doing this project by myself, so there was no one to hold up the pieces while I secured them. I couldn’t find anything that was the right height to hold the sides level, but then I realized several of the pieces I cut out were the correct height. I clamped a couple pieces together and it worked perfectly.


Soon it started looking like a real arcade cabinet. And I was able to construct the whole thing in 1 weekend.




Next came the control panel. I had already ordered a number of parts from ponyboy on the BYOAC forums and an IPac from Ultimarc.

I had to come up with a design for the layout and for the artwork. I went through several revisions of the layout, and people on the BYOAC forums helped me a lot in deciding on my final design. For the artwork I knew I wanted to have a galaga theme, so I found a number of vectorized galaga control panel artwork and spent about an hour in photoshop modifying it until it looked the way I wanted. I then took the art to Kinkos and had them print in onto a vinyl, it turned out looking very nice.
Heres what the original galaga CP looks like:

And heres what my final design looked like:

and my layout:

and now the layout on top of the artwork so you can see how its supposed to look:

Next I needed to actually build the CP. I started with the plexiglass which would cover the CP. I soon found out my crappy skills combined with my crappy jigsaw wasn’t a good combination on things that can shatter, so my first attempt on the plexiglass failed. I heard that lexan was easier to work with then plexiglass and that a flush trim router bit would cut the lexan easily, so I picked up one of each. Let me say that is definately the way to go, with the flush trim bit the cutting was easy, fast and idiot proof.

Next I drilled out all the holes in the wood, then used the flush trim bit to cut the lexan. At the end of the day I had to know how it all looked together, so….

The next day I cut out the holes for the trackball and joystick, then used a router to trim the wood down allowing me to top mount all of the hardware. I also cut the slot for the t-molding at this point.

and once again I had to know how it would look:

The next step I had was figuring out how to install the speakers. The speakers I used were cheap $15 dollar speakers at best buy, I figured I’m playing 10-20 year old games so the speakers don’t need to be all the great. First thing I did was take the speakers apart

Then I figured out how I would need to cut the holes in the speaker panel


and all together:

Next step was painting. I picked up a can of primer and a few cans of semi-gloss black. Painting was fairly easy and went pretty quick, I put on 2 coats of primer and 5 coats of paint. My only word of advice, make sure to use extra thin coats of paint on the t-molding slot, I had to spend a fair amount of time taking a razor blade to the paint that had built up in there.
I finished painting my control panel first so I was able to bring it inside and put it together that night.


I was able to pick up Galaga side art from Arcade Renovations for only $100, and I got a galaga marquee and a generic coin door off of ebay. I then picked up a 27′’ TV that was on sale at Best Buy to use as the monitor (again using my 10-20 year old game logic, figured the monitor back then looked about as good as a modern day TV). I moved the project indoors and put everything together



Only thing left was a bezel and a few other minor things. For the bezel I just used a piece of plexiglass with everything around the monitor painted black. I wanted to use a galaga bezel, but no one has vectorized it yet and the original bezels wouldn’t fit. Regardless, the plain black looks pretty good IMO.


Some other things you might be wondering. I used a smartstrip to have everything power up at the same time the computer is turned on. I jammed a few toothpicks into the power button of the TV to hold the button down, a dumb sounding solution, but it makes the TV turn on as soon as it gets power. This lets me to have a truely one button on/off solution.
The computer is an old 800mhz athlon I used to use as a tivo. Its fast enough for most games, but not all. The coin slots are functional, I wired them to the coin-up buttons I put on the CP, also I wired led’s into the coin return lights, so they light up. I also wired a power button for the computer onto the back of the CP, which you can see here:

I used Mamewah for the frontend and I now have emulators for Mame, Nintendo, Super Nintendo, Genesis, Atari 2600, and PinMame built into the frontend. I also installed a GunCon2 lightgun (made for a playstation 2) and got the drivers working for it. I don’t play lightgun games often, but its there if I want to.
I think I covered pretty much everything, feel free to ask me any questions in case I missed something. I hope you like my work, if you don’t…well, I don’t really care because I’m having to much fun playing on my cabinet
If you want to see my original forum thread where I documented everything I did while I did it, click here
January 6th, 2006 at 8:26 pm
this is one of the nicest home-built mame machines i’ve seen…great work!
January 6th, 2006 at 9:43 pm
Very nice job on the Cab. I just posted a write-up on mine as well. I’m starting my second and was interested in doing my CP similar to yours with artwork under a piece of lexan. If you’ve got a minute….
1) Did you glue the artwork to the wood?
2) How did you attach the lexan to the CP? It looks as if the end toward the front is loose.
3) Is the t-molding flush with the top surface of the lexan? Did you use thinner wood for the CP to make up for the thickness of the lexan?
4) How did you finish the inner edge of lexan of the trackball hole?
Thanks.
January 6th, 2006 at 10:17 pm
Thanks for the compliments. I was extremely surprised at how nice it turned out considering I was learning as I go and had never done anything even remotely like this.
To answer your questions:
1 & 2) No the artwork isn’t glued, its just pressed between the lexan and the wood. The lexan is only attached via the buttons, since every button essentially acts as a bolt there was no need to use anything else. The artwork is held in place the same way. Also, for the button holes in the artwork, instead of cutting out circles for each button, I cut a star pattern (same way you would cut a pizza) so when a button is pushed through each flap of the star was pushed down making a very snug and secure fit. Neither the artwork or the lexan can move at all so no other fasteners should be required.
3) The t-molding is flush with the top of the lexan and keeps the edges from popping up. I used 5/8′’ think wood and 1/8′’ think lexan which makes it a total of 3/4′’ thick, which is the width of the t-molding. It makes for a very clean edge. The white line you see in the picture at the front edge of the CP is just the reflection of the flash off the t-molding, you’ll notice a similar line in the angled shot on the t-molding to the left of the monitor.
4)I trimmed this by first cutting a 3′’ hole in the wood where the trackball would go and cut the lexan with a flush trim bit on the router. You can see in the wood is still there in the first picture I posted of my CP that has the artwork on it.
They are all good questions and I would be happy to answer any more anyone has. I’m just happy that I’m not the only one that likes my cabinet
January 6th, 2006 at 10:25 pm
I also should have mentioned this tutorial which has a section for working with plexiglass and it also is when I learned how to make the “bezel”
http://spystyle.arcadecontrols.com/index1.htm
January 15th, 2006 at 6:18 pm
I have to tell you that this cab is excellent. It appears to have the perfect balance of useable controls on the cp without any clutter, and the size of the cab itself is perfect. Nice Job!
January 24th, 2006 at 10:35 am
Would you consider sending me your control panel overlay so I have it printed for my next project. I love whay you’ve done.
Thanks
Steve Hebert
Allen, TX
January 24th, 2006 at 11:29 am
I wish I could, unfortunately I lost all of the full size and photoshop files due to a hardware malfunction with a raid array. You could try blowing up the smaller picture I have above, but it probably wouldn’t turn out too good. You’re best bet is to make a new one, I got all the images I used for the CPO here: http://www.localarcade.com/arcade_art just search for galaga. To do the borders on the outside I just took the borders from the actual galaga overlay and stretched them in places to make them fit. My photoshop skills aren’t very good so if you look closely you can see the seams in the corners.
March 27th, 2008 at 11:16 pm
Fantastic looking cabinet i have been searching for a theme for about 2 years and this cab has inspired me .
I have never used photoshop before but if you have no objections i would like to make a Control panel identical to this .
It would look great next to my Jukebox.
Cheers
May 16th, 2008 at 1:39 pm
Awsome cab! I’m just starting my homemade cabinet (Centipede or Defender based) and this will help me out a lot. Thanks.
May 22nd, 2008 at 8:41 am
Thanks for the compliments. I haven’t checked comments in a while since I have to moderate 99.9% spam to get to the actual comments, but I’m glad to see my cabinet is still inspiring people
John - Feel free to copy my control panel. I would of posted the full sized pic of the CP and the photoshop file for others to use, but I lost them in a harddrive crash a few years ago.
August 11th, 2008 at 4:44 pm
i just finished cutting the first side of my cab. prety much the same shape as yours. i used a vague side template i found online so im doing everything by the seat of my pants sofar. what is the width of your cab? looks great, hope mine looks as good in the end…
September 5th, 2008 at 9:47 pm
Sorry I didn’t respond sooner, but the inside panels are 26′’ wide.
Also, if you haven’t done so already, go pick up the book Project Arcade. It will answer pretty much every question you’ll have and even comes with two different cabinet plans on the cd. I can’t recommend it enough to anyone who’s building or planning on building an arcade cabinet.
One more thing, if you wish to have a quick response from me (I rarely check these comments due to how rare I actually get a comment) it’s best to send me a PM on the www.byoac.com message boards. I go by the name AtomSmasher and will most likely respond within a few hours.
February 12th, 2010 at 11:48 am
That’s a sweet looking cab. Nice work.